Amazing tool.I had a generic spoke tensiometer and the measurement is different.Parktool is able to future re-calibration.

I had been using the "pluck the spoke" method along with a tuner app on my phone to try to equalize pitches and tensions. I got my wheels in pretty good tension with that method, but finally got this tool. Using this tool makes the process quicker, and more quantitative. I made my own Excel spreadsheet app that fits a cubic polynomial to the load vs. reading values from the supplied Park tables - they all come to a R^2 > 0.999. Then I enter my readings, set the tolerance I want (e.g., 10%, 15%, or 20% variation), and generate my own radial plots. This is a nice tool for the hobby cyclist who wants to step up their game in wheel building and maintenance.

Sturdy construction, tool functionality perfect.Very happy with the purchase.

Even though I'm new to using this tool and the dark art of wheel truing this definitely helped me out a bit. I'm amazed how my wheel hadn't blown up it was that loose

Cumple al 100 % su función, ¿Qué decir? Es ParkTool, en mi opinión la referencia en herramientas para bicicletas

Spokes that are evenly tensioned allow wheels to stay truer, longer. The TM-1 measures spoke tension and combined with the app on the Park Tool website, it becomes an incredibly powerful tool for Pro and Amateur bike mechanics alike.Would I recommend this tool for new bike mechanics? No, probably not. I got by for years truing my wheels using my brake pads as reference. But over time you may notice that even though you have trued your wheel, some spokes are low-tensioned and some are high-tensioned. This discrepancy between spokes will mean your wheel becomes untrue faster.As with most Park Tools, the quality is top-notch but you pay the price. And if you are like me and have interest in a tool like this but no idea how to begin using it, the Park Tool site provides an excellent guide and an excellent app.

I recently went to a downhill mountain bike park. These parks, while fun are quite brutal on your bike. My recent experience left me with busted rear wheel. It was busted in the sense that while riding you could hear all sorts of pinging noises coming from the wheel. I tried to tighten up any loose spokes while I was at the park but ultimately it was time for another solution. I didn't have money for a new wheel and the last time I brought my wheel to a shop I was less than happy with the results. Chances are you may be in the same situation hence the reason you are reading this review.I purchased this item knowing that fixing my wheel would not be easy but I do have a somewhat mechanical background and access to the internet so I figured this was my most affordable solution. The tool arrived in a timely manner and was packaged appropriately (typical Amazon, keep up the good work). The device came with a simple, east to read set of instructions. The device was well built and felt durable, I was initially taken back as the size in person was much larger than what I had expected based off the pictures. I used the device to check the tension on each of my spokes and Park has a web page that will let you input the specs for each spoke and it will tell you where the wheel is weak basically. I think the hardest part for me was trying to figure out the specs for my particular spokes. That was very frustrating (not Parks fault though). After spending about an hour with the device I became quite comfortable using it and even got into a nice rhythm using it. I re-tensioned the wheel while it was on the bike because I did not have a wheel truing stand (I really don't think it is necessary unless you are building a wheel from scratch.). I found that setting the tension is much like tuning a guitar in the sense that when you tighten one spoke you loosen another. My advice is to adjust all of them a little bit at a time and continue going back over them until the tension is set vs. trying to get them all set on the first try. To summarize, I have a fancy new tool which was well worth the money and I have a nice tight and straight rear wheel and ready for the trails. If you are not afraid of a little challenge and some elbow grease I would highly recommend trying this out. I thought it was a bit pricey but it has already saved me a trip to the bike shop not to mention a new rear wheel. It will also help me keep my wheels in tune which will lengthen the lifespan of the wheels.

Let's hit the first question off the bat; Do you need this doo-dad to properly build a wheel or keep your wheels in good working order?The answer is it depends upon how close you wish to be to the bleeding edge.Mechanics have been building bike wheels for about 200 hundred years now (dating back to before the early velocipede designs), usually without the benefit of a spoke tension gauge. And for decades, racing wheels used in everything from the Tour de France to serious downhill competitions have been built without spoke tension meters as well. That is because mechanics overbuilt their wheels for the riding style and course, and their fatigue limit was sufficiently far from their elastic limit. (spokes that are tensioned too high are too close to their elastic limit, or that of the rim) Likewise, if you wish to build your own wheels and follow some basic safety factor limits when building a wheel, then a tension gauge is not important. That said, in today's world, there is always that rider out there who is 200 lbs (90.7 kg) and who wants a 24 spoke radially laced front wheel on a 330 gram rim. If bleeding edge riding is your style or you are trying to save 150 grams on your carbon fiber road or mountain bike or you want to push it right to the physical limits, then a spoke tension gauge becomes essential.This Park Tools TM-1 gauge works by using a spoke diameter gauge to measure the middle (or butted part, if your spokes are such) part of a spoke (or you could use precision calipers) and then applying the the tool so that the spoke runs between the two fixed posts and the moveable post. The arrow at the top will point to a number on the graduated scale and you then refer to the separate conversion table to see what kilograms of force (kgf) measurement this corresponds to. For most wheels, you want somewhere between 80 and 130 kgf. Although, this value can vary depending upon the exact riding application. I am not a professional or shop mechanic, but I do build wheels for myself and others that join our off road riding group. I have used this gauge for about twenty wheel builds over the last five years or so. I find it to work fairly well. My older mountain biking wheels (rim brake) are often set up with Mavic 32 hole X517 rims and are typically radially laced in the front and three cross drive/radial lace non-drive in the back. While my newer rims are often 32 hole DT Swiss, Mavic X317 disc or Stans racing rims. I can usually tune by hand and by sound my wheels so that no spoke is 20% above or below the spoke average of the entire wheel (this is a standard reference limit for bike wheels), but the TM-1 really helps me to keep my older wheels at right around 100 kgf and my newer disc rims at about 110 kgf. And these values are right in the happy middle between allowing for a long fatigue life while maintaining ample tension so that if one spoke breaks, the wheel does not taco and I can ride back to the trail head. Those tension levels also prevent fatigue at the rim eyelets and ensure long rim life.Are than any negatives about the TM-1? Not really, but I do find the spoke diameter gauge to be cheaply made. I much prefer to use my Neiko digital caliper when measuring spokes. I also wish that Park Tool would include a standard guide for major manufacturers in their conversion table. The values for a 1.5 mm butted generic spoke from China and one from DT or Sapim are not the same. (Although, you can find these exact values online) And because the gauge is a calibrated spring, I suggest any owner send it back to Park Tool every 25 wheel builds or so, so that exact calibration is maintained. However, those are relatively small quibbles. Thanks to the TM-1, I have never had a wheel taco so far or a spoke break. While this gauge is not essential to wheel building for most riders who are not bleeding edge weight weenies, it does allow the home builder to have some quantitative idea of how their wheels are doing. And for me, that means longer wheel life and no problems on the trail. Five stars in my book.

Funktion wie erwartet. Ich hab die Eichung nicht getestet, aber nach dem Einsatz an industriell gefertigten Campa-Laufrädern, bei denen die Vorspannung ja bis auf wenige kgF genau bekannt ist, und meinen Erfahrungswerten, sind die Werte für mich plausibel. Der wahre Wert liegt in der Möglichkeit, rundum im Rad gleichmäßige Spannung herzustellen. Es braucht etwas Übung, um konsistente Meßwerte zu erzielen, vor allem bei Messerspeichen, wo eine Verdrehung der Speiche in sich den Meßwert beeinflussen kann. Die Druckstellen der Federwiderlager gehören geschmiert, um Verschleiß zu reduzieren. Ich mag nicht mehr ohne das Teil speichen, man bekommt sehr gutes Gefühl dafür, was in dem Laufrad los ist. Preis - Leistung ist damit unschlagbar und soweit ich weiss fast alternativlos, es gibt noch was ähnliches von Wheelsmith. Die mitgelieferte Tabelle läßt leider die von mir bevorzugte Abmessung der CXRay von SAPIM vermissen, aber 0,9 x 2 gibt es ja und das wird schon sehr nah an den Werten für die CXRay liegen. Irgendwann werde ich dass mal überprüfen mit einer Anordnung aus einem Hebel und einem Gewicht. Für die Selbsteinspeicher unter uns jedenfalls ein unverzichtbares Hilfsmittel.