I have installed many WeatherTech (WT) accessories on several cars over the years, but NEVER have I had such a difficult time installing anything as I had with this bug deflector, WT part #50279, on my 2020 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L mini-van. WT advertises that this deflector easily fits several Pacifica models. Well, it DOESN’T, it requires significant alterations and deviations from all instructions and videos. Here’s what you must do.1. Gather the following tools: flat-blade screwdriver, ½” or 1” wide roll of blue painter’s tape, 12” wide roll of painter’s masking paper, one roll of low density foam insulating tape ½” wide, one hair dryer, one heat gun, one pair of protective gloves (NOT thin rubber gloves), four large spring clamps, 8-10 wooden shims, four soft rags, one large empty Amazon cardboard box or one telescoping hood prop rod or an old mop handle.2. Mask off the front of the hood using the 12” wide roll of painter’s masking paper, held in place with small strips of painter’s blue masking tape. This will prevent you from scratching the hood while you fidget with fitting the deflector. Ask me how I know.3. Use the cardboard box (or whatever) to prop the hood open to the height that’s most comfortable for you, or draft one spousal unit for the job.4. Remove the factory installed tubular rubber gasket from the underside of the hood, using a screwdriver to pop the plastic push pins out of their holes. Temporarily set the deflector in place on the hood.5. This is when you discover that the six plastic flanges on the deflector CANNOT fit as the instructions say, between the tubular rubber gasket and the underside of the hood. Those six flanges are affixed at an impossible angle so the deflector CANNOT be installed between the gasket and the underside of the hood.6. This is also when you discover that even IF the flanges were at the correct angle, they still block access to several of the holes that the rubber gasket’s plastic push pins must fit back into when (following the instructions) you attempt to replace the rubber gasket after installing the deflector.7. Ignore the instructions and throw away the whole dang tubular rubber gasket, as it’s worthless to you.8. Temporarily hold the deflector in place with a few small strips of blue tape.9. Find the half-moon indentation on the deflector that marks the center point, and line that up with the front stud that holds the hood latch in place. Eye-ball that match-up and mark it with tape, pencil or whatevcr.10. Remove the deflector from the hood, and now remove the protective plastic cover from the adhesive that’s on the back of each of the six flanges. Carefully replace the deflector back on the hood, centered, but don’t allow the adhesive to come firmly in contact with the underside of the hood. That 3M stuff is sticky.11. Determine which of the six plastic flanges looks like it’s closest to fitting properly, and use the hair dryer (NOT the heat gun) to warm the underside of the hood where that flange will eventually make contact. This will insure that the adhesive will stick better.12. Put on the protective gloves and use the heat gun on medium to high setting, to partially melt that one plastic flange until it becomes pliable enough that you can force it with your fingers (did you remember the protective gloves?) to conform to the undulating surface of the underside of the hood. When done properly, that plastic flange should hold itself in place for several moments, long enough to complete the next step. NOTE: When done improperly, that plastic flange will burst into flames, igniting your clothing and everything nearby, thus proving that you really should have listened to your spousal unit when she was nagging you to buy that fire extinguisher for the garage when it was on sale.13. Now, quickly grab one clamp, one rag, and 3-4 wooden shims. Place the shims between the deflector and the hood (this will ensure the proper separation between the deflector and the hood), wrap the rag around the font of the deflector to avoid scratching it, and place the clamp over the nose of the hood. This should hold the deflector firmly in place while it cools.14. Find the next plastic flange that looks like it’s fitting most properly, and proceed to fit it in place like you did the first one. I recommend that you allow the first two flanges to set in place for at least an hour to cool, before moving on to the other flanges. This will prevent the early flanges from succumbing to the stress of the other flanges applying any tension to them sufficient to dislodge them.15. Continue with the above instructions until you have all six flanges in place.16. Put down the heat gun, and pat yourself on the back for attempting this difficult installation.17. Decide whether or not you wish to do the next possible step. WT has included six self-tapping machine strews and six plastic washers, so you could drill holes into the underside of your hood through the holes provided in each of the six plastic flanges, to provide an even more secure attachment. I decided to forego drilling holes in my hood until I saw how well the adhesive on the six flanges held up. So far, so good. Your mileage may vary.18. While waiting for the flanges to cool fully, install the low density foam insulation tape where the hood meets the top of the radiator shield, providing a seal.19. Once you’ve provided ample time for the six flanges to cool you can remove the cardboard box (or release the spousal unit to attend to other tasks) and close the hood.20. This is when you discover that YOU CANNOT CLOSE THE HOOD !!!21. The deflector is so thick that it won’t allow the hood to fully close. It will have a gap which allows the hood to travel at least 1/4”, so you can drive around with it banging up and down, or do what I did.22. I got several metal washers, removed the hood latchplate, placed 4 washers (about ¼” high) on each of the two studs, between the hood and the latchplate, reinstalled the latchplate and then closed the hood. Finally, a perfect fit.23. Now, stand back and admire your work. Oh, and thank spousal unit profusely.

This needs tools to installDrill into your hood and screw on fit was just okHard to close hood once it's installed