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Unless you take your cassette off you can't center anything, when you think it's good it wiggles on adjustment rods, unless it's solid you'll never reach true

Easy to set up for both thru axles and skewers. The included dial indicators are not high precision but more than adequate for the task. The instructions are not the best but are adequate. This stand will work for beginners but you will need to do some research to make use of it. All in all, it's a great stand for the price.

Assembly threads are cut very well with no play; faces of machined parts are planar, true and reasonably flat. What more could you ask for $150. Saw some reviews saying it wasn't accurate. Maybe they got a production error. Can't speak for the accuracy of the gauges, but the human eye is imperceptible to the scale of measurement they offer. Anything the gauges measure will be better than eyeballing anything. Trueness of a wheel is not absolute, but a range of acceptable values. This is the best price given all the features for a CNC machined device that is easily assembled and ready to use out of the box. $500 stands can suck it.

Stamped parts are not even remotely accurate for the centering claws.

Comparing this stand to the [MAJOR BRAND] truing stand we have at work, I'll take this one every time. MUCH higher build quality, MUCH better fit and finish, MUCH nicer all around, and for MUCH less money. [MAJOR BRAND] is selling a label-slapped stack of cheap stamped steel for several hundred dollars, simply because they can. This stand is actually made from aluminum billet, machined smooth, softened corners, then sand-blasted into a smooth texture. The linear bearings move smoothly across parallel rods, and everything is just such high quality that I can't even think of using that blue pile of junk at the shop. The included dial indicators aren't Starrett or Mitutoyo (you can feel the dial racks, but the movement is smooth overall, not gritty or crunchy), but they work to get the job done, since it's all relative runout measurements, not absolutes.I almost made my own stand for home from stock I've got kicking around, but for the price I decided to give this stand a shot. I'm really glad I did, because I couldn't have machined anything better for the price. Got a few vintage Schwinn hoops I needed to re-lace, and this thing really impressed me as a total package.Oh, and I redacted the actual brand name for obvious reasons. Still, marking up cheap offshore stamped metal for hundreds of dollars is beyond the pale. If you're going to buy an offshore product (you are), might as well spend the money on something quality. This stand is quality. Money well-spent on a superior product.

As I learned from buying this truing stand it does not have the rigidity needed to get the benefit of dial indicators so you are better off buying a cheaper more rigid non dial indicator stand and adding dial indicators. Read on and I will share what I learned about truing stands from buying this stand and trying to get it to work.First understand, the benefit of a dial indicator truing stand, is faster wheel truing and being able to quantify how true you’re your wheel is. You can get your wheels just as true with a tie-rap indicator on your fork, but it will take longer. Generally, you can expect to get your wheels trued to +/-0.15mm (0.006”) without too much trouble if your rim is not bent.The way it should work with a dial indicator truing stand is as follows: Install wheel and zero dial indicator at the valve hole. Remove and flip the wheel, reinstall and measure at the valve hole again. Halfway between your first reading and your second reading is your truing target value or zero. Set the zero of the dial to between the two readings and then true the wheel to zero and it will also be perfectly dished. With this target value, you can adjust every spoke as you go around the wheel, not like the old indicator stick way of just adjusting on the most out of true portion of the wheel. Also there is no need to pull the rim into correct dish after truing the wheel since with dial indicators you true to correct dish. So, you save allot of time with dial indicators. To determine if a dial indicator truing stand is capable, it needs to be rigid and repeatable. I suggest the following test: Insert the wheel, make sure the axle is seated correctly in the fork, orient the rim to put the valve hole at the dial indicator, zero the dial indicator at the valve hole and put a dab of paint on the axle at the 12 o’clock position. Remove and replace the wheel and put it in the the same position as it was (at the valve hole, do not flip, same axle orientation). If the stand is good, the dial indicator will return to within +/-0.4mm consistently. Repeat this test several times. The 0.4mm (0.015”) value is my estimate of the maximum amount of error. The more variability, and fiddling with the stand to get repeatable readings, the longer the truing process will take, and the less happy you will be.While the knob system to change the fork width initially seems cool, the function is poor. The linear bearing slop is magnified by the length of the fork arm. The fork blades have about 10mm of back and forth movement on each blade from the linear bearing slop. In addition, there is flex in the fork blades and the dial indicators are attached to another wobbly arm. Making slight adjustments to the fork width arm causes wild movements on the dial gauge so you are always evaluating how tight do you make the knob to reduce the slop in the forks and still be able to consistently remove and replace the wheel so you can zero the dial gauges.A better design for a dial indicator stand is to have one fixed, very rigid fork blade with the dial indicators attached to the rigid fixed blade with the other fork blade being adjustable. The manufacturer could have saved money getting rid of this nonsense fork width adjustment system. Look at the P&K Lie or the Park TS-8 as two stands following this design principle. In the end I decided that this stand is fatally flawed and for the price will take too much work to re-engineer. Instead I have decided to add gauges to a Park TS-8 which I believe will take less effort to re-engineer.To those who have this stand I have the following recommendations: To get more repeatable results, do not tighten the quick release (on any truing stand). Use the tension knob to put some tension on the hub, and then don't touch it. You can get the wheel out without loosening. You may consider putting numbers on the tension knob to more easily set it to the same tension each time. The metal tips on the indicators rubbing against aluminum rims will drive you crazy with the scraping. You need to put plastic or wood tips on the indicators to reduce the noise. There are roller tips available but they are expensive and wood or plastic works just fine at the slow rotational speeds of wheel truing.

Update - I reported the first item as defective, received a replacement, and it works great and is truly beautiful. Four stars instead of five because it came with no instructions at all. I guess if you are ordering one of these, you ought to know what you are doing.I just got this and it is beautiful, but the rim calipers wobble side to side so I don't know when they are centered. It didn't come with any directions or guidance at all so I can't figure out if there is an adjustment I should or could make.