Norcold Inc. Refrigerators 619154 Thermocouple

Threads on this thermocouple did not fit my original Norcold threads. Bad business

While the part number on the genuine Norcold packaging (619154) was correct, the threads on the securing nut were completely wrong (as another reviewer a few days ago noted), and not the same as the picture in the product description. In my pic, the old one is on the right, the new one on the left. Possibly the manufacturer put the wrong part in the bag. Unfortunately will have to return.

Ordered this thermocouple and a thermocouple interrupter at the same time.Thermocouple has fine threads, interrupter has course threads. The thermocouple won’t work with the interrupter that came with it or the original, which is also course thread.Ordered another one from a different vendor. Hopefully it works.

My propane was cutting out randomly to my Norcold n302.3. I replaced the thermocouple, burner orifice, and spark assembly (for the heck of it). When working on the fridge, the existing parts were covered in rust and corroded. With the new parts installed, the fridge is working flawlessly. High recommend replacing the thermocouple and orifice.

This gave enough milivolts to hold the solenoid open. Before i used to have a flame and when i release the red button the flame would go away. Changed this and flawless cold drinks and ice cream for the family bruh! Also changed 621737 Thermocouple all flawless now

Works perfect. Totally happy

Great fit. Functions well

My pilot lite was not staying lit and getting worse. It finally stopped working all together. I Bought this thermocouple and interrupter and the fridge works flawlessly. Took about :45 from start to finish. The fridge only needs to be slid out a few inches to replace the two items. No need to undo anything except for the screws on the front face of the fridge into the cabinet.

On Norcold model N300 fridge, the thermocouple wouldn't keep the pilot lit. First suspect, as always, was the thermocouple. Looked at the thermocouple through the back of the unit and noticed it was not correctly threaded into the interrupter. The threaded inlet on the interruptor wasn't deep enough to fully engage the threads of the thermocouple fitting. I purchased the new thermocouple and attempted to install and wound up with same problem - fitting wouldn't thread properly into the interrupter. I could only just barely catch the first thread of the thermocouple fitting with the threads in the interrupter. Fitting was inserted as far as it would go down into the interrupter inlet. Hooked it up best I could but in another day the fridge was out again. Needless to say, problem not solved by new thermocouple. Began to suspect someone had used the wrong interrupter at install or previous repair time (I bought the trailer used). OK. More research. Ahhhh...apparently there were several fridges manufactured by Norcold using wire connectors on the selector wires that were made of material with with too high resistance factor to be able efficiently carry the few milliamperes generated by the thermocouple through the valve control system. To fix this, Norcold did a recall and created a replacement wiring harness that consists of just two wires (red and blue) and their connectors. Assume made from proper materials this time...For details see Norcold Service Bulletin N300 LP Mode Troubleshooting TNCSTP 081804Here: http://comet.ak.planet.gen.nz/~matelec/PDF/n300_lp_bulletin_081804.pdfI ordered the wires off Amazon (Norcold Inc. Refrigerators 628119 Switch Wire Installation Kit) with their connectors along with a new interruptor (Norcold Inc. Refrigerators 621737 Thermocouple Interrupter) and it all installed easily, the previously purchased thermocouple threaded right into the new interrupter, and the fridge now works fine. By the way - depending on your particular circumstances, you may not have to take the whole fridge out of the cabinet like it says to in the troubleshooting pdf in order to replace the wires. I was able to get my arms past the cooling fins on the backside and work it from the outside access on the trailer. It helped me to wear long sleeves as I pushed my arms up and over the cooling fins - the corners are scratchy. Also, when you replace the interrupter, be careful when you use your pliers to pull off the connector going to the flame meter. That wire is tiny gauge and you don't want to give the connector too hard of a pull and end up yanking the wire out of the meter when it finally lets go. I think I came close on mine,In the end I can't know if it was the thermocouple or the interrupter or the wires and connectors, but replacing all three components has, so far, solved the problem. We took it on a three day jaunt right after installation and it worked fine the whole time.