I have purchased this blade in the past because of the quality and nothing has changed. Very good blade at a reasonable price.

I got this blade to upgrade my ancient Craftsman 8" table saw. The ripping blades I got with it really caused the saw to struggle. I've only used the new blade to rip 4 short pieces of 1x3, but the cut was very clean and it was like cutting through butter compared to the old blades. The combination of carbide cutters and thin kerf really help to get more out of this saw. Highly recommend.

pairs perfectly with my Festool saw. Its thin kerf design makes ripping through hardwood and softwood incredibly smooth and efficient, minimizing material waste. The Perma-Shield coating is a standout feature—it reduces friction, prevents gumming, and keeps the blade cooler during extended use.What impressed me most is how clean and precise the cuts are, with minimal splintering. It's especially noticeable on high-end materials where precision is critical. The blade also stays sharp for a long time, making it a great value. If you’re using a Festool saw and need a reliable rip blade, this is a top-notch choice!

Bought this to replace the stock blade that came with my metabo contractor table saw,This thing cut through black walnut like a hot knife through butter without leaving burn marks.I am buying one for my miter saw too.Am also going to buy other types from this manufacturer and seller,Crosscut, rip,box joint etc.

Nice clean cuts. I also have the Freud regular kerf rip blade. Both a nice blades but the thin kerf blade is my favorite. The saw doesn't work as hard and it removes a little less material. Overall, this is my fourth Freud blade. I've been happy with all of them. Don't break the bank to buy but are well made with solid performance and have held up well.

The quality and accuracy of these Freud blades is 1st class. I unreservadly recommend purchasing this blade for your Dewalt table saw

I decided to put this 9" ripping blade with 22 teeth, on my Dewalt radial arm saw. So far, I can't see a need to purchase any other blade. The reduced motor drag, and the decreased sawdust from the larger teeth, are reason enough to use a ripping blade.I got the idea from "BigMikeTuna." He said in his famous radial arm saw video, showing his 1978 Craftsman radial arm saw, that he only uses this Freud 10" thin kerf "ripping blade" for all his fine furniture building, including precision crosscuts on critical hardwoods in furniture--he says he never uses any other blade, and doesn't own a table saw due to table saws being the most dangerous tool ever made. He goes into detail about why they are so dangerous in his radial arm saw video.If you have a table saw, just throw it away; there are 7.... horrific accidents per day on table saws in the USA--go and read the statistics and stories before you use it again. That is 7 "horrific" stories every single day, not including the hundreds of minor accidents each day on the table saw, in the United States alone... I don't like to use negative words that create negative thoughts, so I'm being vague on purpose. But please look up the statistics.Table saws are run with no guard on them, as a standard practice, and most of the old cast iron saws have no riving knife, which is a recipe for a ruinous accident. If you are going to use a table saw, at least get one with a riving knife, and don't even think about using your old style "non riving knife" contractor saw anymore.I use this blade for all my cuts. Radial arm saws are far better at ripping boards than crosscutting, because their bearings, and carriage are locked during a rip cut, so you get 100% accuracy, with zero slop in the bearings due to entire carriage being tightly locked into a fixed position during a rip cut.And, nobody happened to notice, but a radial arm saw has about a 99% dust collection efficiency during a rip cut, better than any other power tool, without any modifications to the guard, due tot he inherent location of the guard over the blade.But in a crosscut, a radial arm saw blade guard does almost nothing, it provides only partial protection to the user. And, stupidly, the guard cannot actually be used for dust collection on a crosscut. You can only collect dust on a radial arm saw by doing a rip cut, but most people don't realize this. In my opinion after owning 10 radial arm saws, and 2 table saws, a radial arm saw is much safer for rip cuts than crosscuts--the exact opposite of the common rumors about them.The blade guard covers 98% of the blade during a rip cut, and the carriage is locked so it cannot move, which makes it a lot safer than a table saw being run with no guard.As BigMikeTuna explains in his famous video, a radial arm saw cannot do a violent ejection of a board either, because the blade is set down into the cutting deck, so the outside periphery of the teeth cannot launch a board up into the air--also the blade guard prevents this from being possible, due to the blade guard blocking most of the blade. Again, table saws are run without any blade guard, as a standard practice. Radial arm saws are never operated without the guard, because the guard is not obtrusive.Back to this blade:I want to buy a 2nd one of these blades, but the cost is actually unreasonable, considering that you can get a budget blade for $14. It doesn't make sense why these are $55 or $60. Out of principle, I have held off on buying a 2nd blade, even though I do need another one. They need to bring these thin kerf blades down to about $38.

What an impressive blade. Does the job very well. Right now I have only used pine but I am sure it would do the same job with fir and harder wood.

El disco corta muy bien, su diseño disminuye considerablemente el ruido, el hecho de ser de espesor delgado hace que los cortes sean mas finos y suaves, yo lo uso para cortes transversales y longitudinales.

I opened the package and was excited to see my nice new blade, until...I noticed a tooth had come off in shipping. Sort of no surprise since the protective cardboard package the blade comes was only put in a bubble wrap envelope. This flew a long way up to me here in the Canadian Arctic so I would have expected a bit better packaging. Really disappointed cause it looks like a gorgeous blade. It says thin kerf, but it has the same thickness as a festool blade, and nice big carbides. I’m gonna give it a go even missing a tooth, because for me to return the item to Amazon for a replacement is half the cost (or the same) of a new one. It has to fly back down South 3000 km.[UPDATE- ONE MONTH LATER]This blade is gorgeous, even missing a tooth! I have used it ripping 6/4 maple, no burning. Even used it to rip and cross cut 3/4” Baltic ply and it performs as well as my 48 tooth festool blade. All of this while using it in my old 1930s tilt-top Delta table saw with a 1/2 hp motor- I can only imagine what this bad boy would do in a 3 hp cabinet saw. It even cuts with a lower pitched growl than most other blades. Get it and don’t look back!

As another reviewer mentioned, the Jet blade that came with the saw was not cutting it, as it was burning everything and putting horrible saw marks on every cut. I purchased this blade as a replacement and couldn't be happier. I've owned 2 of these blades and they transformed my "underpowered" saw (Jet Contractor) into a cutting machine. Unfortunately, the 1st blade found a piece of metal in some plywood and required replacement - no fault of the blade.I'm usually working with 4/4-5/4 red oak and it never misses a beat. The thin kerf design really does make a difference with these "underpowered" saws. Even though you would expect more deflection/chatter because it's thinner, it does produce a very clean edge. The only gripe I have is that I cannot find this blade locally. I was forced to try the Freud Diablo D1024x and I was VERY dissapointed. See my review of the D1024x for more on that blade.